We've all been there ... at least those of us who are stupid enough to drag cameras with us while we go scuba diving ... You get back from the dive, and you look at the pictures you took and you find there's that one picture that looks good ... except for that blue/green cast dominating subject and background. It looks flat and you remember thinking how beautiful and colorful the fish was when you took its picture. What can you do? Well ... here's a method that can often return significant natural-looking color to your underwater images that have that blue/green cast. This technique works best with images without a lot of water column and lots of colorful stuff. I'm using Photoshop CS3 for this tutorial, but most of the effects are easy to replicate in other editors.
Don't be afraid to dial it back and make sure to preview the results in a 1:1 magnification to truly see the impact ... you don't want to oversharpen the image, but done right you can really accentuate the details of an image this way.
Ok ... Step 2 ... on to the color part.
Now look at the layer control ... each layer has pull down option that defaults to "Normal" next to another control labeled "Opacity" with a value of 100% ... the first pulldown contains the blending options for this layer. Switch this from "Normal" to "Overlay" and play with the opacity until you think the image looks good.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Jeremy Payne on underwater color correction
Wetpixel member Jeremy Payne posts a link to his technique for color correcting underwater images exposed with too little strobe light.
Here’s a method that can often return significant natural-looking color to your underwater images that have that blue/green cast. This technique works best with images without a lot of water column and lots of colorful stuff. I’m using Photoshop CS3 for this tutorial, but most of the effects are easy to replicate in other editors.
Posted: Eric Cheng 07.31.08 04:14 AM
Related » (discuss) (link here) (1 comments) Categories: News, Photo News


4 comments:
Interesting post, but... If I use RAW, I can play around with hue, saturation, temperature and tint. I often use temperature and tint combination to recover monochrom photos by pulling both values to the maximum.
Sure. Starting with a RAW file is a whole different game, but many photographers shoot JPEGs that don't allow the same kind of low-level re-interpretation of the sensor data.
Can't wait to try rhis, thanks!
Thank you for the tutorial! I use Photoshop extensively, but I always enjoy trying new procedures.
Have a great day!!
KennyG
www.uwexplorers.net
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